And on to Croatia!

Thanks for the reminders about how long it's been. Seems I need that little push.... Ljublana was great, really only need one day there though. It's such a small town! My next stop after that Lipica. Home of the Lipizzana horses. The Austrians when they had hold of the region, decided that would be where these dancing horses would be bred. Now there are breeding stables all over the worls, but it was interesting to see their home. I actually went there thinking it would be a village, but no. It's just stables and feilds, though they do have a hotel and golf-course. Gotta cater to the rich... I did a tour of the stable which was quite interesing, learnt a bit how they run the place, and the history of course.

They next day I was over the border and into Croatia. This was to be my first real borderand change in currency. The Border was so easy, she looked at my passport, didn't stamp it though, so I hope they let me back out, and they didn't even want to look at my motorbike papers... A breeze! I spent the first night eating seafood by a small fishing harbour. The area is actually a lot like the Cote d'Azure. Thanks to the Austrians who built beautiful houses back in the day.

Then it was on to Zagreb. Capital of Croatia. This was slightly larger that Ljubljana. And it was the Easter weekend. Saturday was good. Lots of people, a bustling market and a Museum. I also did a bicycle tour. That was great fun. I had forgotten how nice it was to ride a bike. Also nice to get a local's view on the city.

The next day, Easter Sunday. The city was deserted. Plenty of action around the cathedral of course. I went to one of the only cafe's open for breakfast where the average age of the patrons was about 70. Good food though. I had a cheese burek which is a local cheese filled pastry. Very good, and very filling. The only thing open was the cemetery, which was supposed to be one of the prettiest in Europe. And it was. I wondered around for a while, though there is only so much time you can spend in a cemetery. So I spent the afternoon lying in the park, reading. Not a bad way to spend a sunday. Once I had enough of that I had a cider at a local cafe, then headed back to the hostel. I veg'd out there with the hostel manager in front of the TV, and chatted to anyone who came in. A nice day. The next day was time to leave, but first I went to the Museum of Broken Relatioships. Just cause it sounded curious. People donate things that remind them of a broken relationship, and give the story behind it. It wasn't always a romatic relationship either. Some were business, political, family, but most were romantic. It was interesting that's for sure.

I then headed down the toward the coast to Plitvice Lakes National Park, which is a UNESCO site. A beautiful place. The main feature, the reason for UNESCO recognisance is the river/lakes. The lakes are steps and they continuously flow over into the next, creating dozens of waterfalls. Quite spectacular. I camped nearby for the night. There was a group of 5 young German (Bavarian) guys near my tent. They had a proper campfire, which I promptly joined them around. It was quite nice. Haven't done that in a long time. It was certainly a first for this trip. 

Then it was to the coast, to Zadar. A charming little place. Another nice little old town. I walked around one corner, and came face-to-face with roman ruins. In the middle of the city! Zadar was also where I met my first motorcycle travellers. Two Colorado guys. One was travelling for 2 weeks, but the other for as long as the money lasts. So a couple of months. We spent the evening having drinks at the nearby sailing club, telling stories. David and I will try to meet up down the rod soemwhere. Maybe do Turkey together... We'll see if it works out.

The next day was the day of UNESCO. First Sibenik, home tone of Dr Kovac from ER (though that's not why it's UNESCO). It has a lovely cathedral made entirely of stone. Apparently the only one built in this way in europe. Or something like that. Then it was Trogir, with a lovely old town. I had lunch there and wondered about a bit. They have a Sea Organ. Steps at the seas edge, and when the waves go into the hollow part underneath, the air is pushed out up the top, making musical notes. It's really quite nice.

Then I got to my destination. Split.  The last couple of days my bike hadn't been running right, stuttering, and just not right. so i thought i would get it checked out before I headed any further east. I found a BMW shop, which I later found out was the last one till Greece. So the next morning, I brought the bike in, and they said they would check it out in between the scheduled services. So I spent the day in the old town, more UNESCO. The Palace of Diocletian. A roman palace that still stands, despite all that has been built around it. So I whiled the hours away, before going back to the bike shop. They hadn't figured it out, but it could be due to the Carbs leaking. Which is only a small gasket needing replacement. But there aren't any in Croatia. He said leave it with hi, he'll try to sort it, but it is highly likely I'll need to wait 4 working days until the part is shipped in from Germany. Ah well, could be worse places to be stuck. I left it with him, and I spent the next day watching the royal wedding, which was on 2 channels even here! When i went back, he said I could have my bike, but don't go far, cause it might not last long. At least I was mobile. He also invited my to his Motorcycle Clubhouse, where they were having a party. Of course I would go!  So I did. it was nice. Nothing grand, such a small group of friends who get together every friday and go to rally's and such. It was a family type club with a couple of kids running around. I got thier badge too. They were really nice. They fed and watered me, and when I tried to reimburse them, they refused. There is another party tonight somewhere, but i'm not sure where. Not sure if I'll go. I do have nothing else to do... I'll let you know...

Unfortuantely pictures won't upload, so I'll try again later.

From Verona to Ljubljana.

I am a really bad blogger. I can't beleive it's been a week since I last wrote! I really will try to make this short and sweet.

Juliets Balcony

The day after I last wrote, I went to Verona. The city of Romeo and Juliet. I fell in love with that city! It was fantastic. I did a walking tour, but as I was the only one, it was a private tour. Fantastic. The city itself is so interesting, I decided that I would come back and spend a couple of weeks there. Maybe even do a 2 week learn Italian language course. Who knows...

Venice from S. Giorgio Church

I unfortunately only spent a few hours there before I left for Venice. I was so excited about it. I camped on a spit of the mainland, but i then had to bus to the end, and then the ferry took you over to S. Marco Square. The whole process was 1.5 hours! I didn't bargain for that! Unfortunately on the first day, Venice didn't live up to my expectations. I came back to camp quite deflated. And there was a thunderstorm roaring overhead. I hadn't thought of the implications of that. Is it safe? There were trees above me, but still. Is that safe? Well I survived. I wasn't going to stay another day, but decided to give it another chance. I went back, determined to get away from the tourist traps. And I succeeded. Mostly. Though I did get sucked into spending alot of money on Murano, the glass-works island. Ah well. Venice does suck the money right out of your pockets, but I can say I have been there, and I don't really need to go back.

The star from the roof of the train station.

From there I went to Slovenia. Which evidently is a quite recent EU state. In a border town that originally Slovenian, then became Italian at the end of WWI, the Slovenian's built a town over the border to compensate. There is a square that covers both countries. In the train station on the square, there was a museum on the hostory of the Italy/Slovene border. Quite interesting. It covered WWI, the fall of Yugoslavia, and the independence of Slovenia and becoming EU. They even had the red star that used to be on top of the train station. It was so small, that the lady opened it especially for me. She was very nice, but could only speak German. At least that has come in handy!

My breakfast spot in the Soca Valley. All the rivers look like this in the area.

I spent the next couple of days travelling up the Soca valley, which was the front of WWI. (I have learnt alot about WWI in recent days) Then over the Vrsic pass, which was 1600m up in the Julian Alps, above the snow line I might add, then to the lakes of Bled and Bohinj, and finally to the capital of Ljubljana. All this done in 4 days, with only a couple of hours riding each day, if that. It really is a beautiful, if pocket sized country. it has certainly challenged me in my riding, with the amount of hair-pins I've done, some on cobbles. Had me freaking out at times, and going at less than walking pace! Still having a great time though. Got another day in Ljubljana, before I head for the coast.

Lake Bled with the church on the island.

Waterfall in Bohinj that originates 500m higher in the rock.

Vrsic Pass. And this wasn't even the highest point!

Ljubljana, only 270,000 inhabitants in the capital!

Italy so far...

So Italy, aside from the traffic has been a joy. I spent another night by the sea before heading inland. The aim was to get to Lake Garda in day, but because of the extreme heat, that is, 32 degrees (it's hot to me now! Never used to be!) I had to stop half way. Once off the coast the traffic got better, but the coast road was still very pretty. But the inland road. Wow. 

A lay-by to give me a breath from the concentration!

Inside the Cathedral

Winding, and twisting and turning up into the mountains with the occasional tunnel just to make things interesting. The amount of bikers out there was awesome, but I was constantly pulling over to let them past, cause there is no way I can keep up with those italian drivers! And again, just to make things interesting, there were also rally cars to contend with, who were really noisy, and even faster than the bikes. As I said, because of the heat, I didn't make it all the way to lake Garda, and stopped for the night in a little town called Bobbio. Pretty little place in the mountains, with a fast-flowing river running through it. It was there I had my first Gelato of the holiday and really appreciated it. I also found the town cathedral, which was very pretty inside, and oh so quiet! I didn't go far in cause my boots made too much noise. 

Lake Garda with the Peaks in the background.

Any how I made it to Lake Garda, and it is like it is high season, it is so busy. I have been stuck in a little corner near the restaurant and pool. But it is a place, and they had a nice hot shower. So tomorrow I go on to Verona, and then a campsite near Venice. Really looking forward to it too!

Monaco, and 1000 miles.

So Monaco is where I got up to. It is everything they say it is, a rich boys playground. The expensive cars and shops and women are everywhere. I first drove up to the casino, where I parked my bike in a side street, and just went and looked. It is beautiful! The garden outside just adds to it.

I went inside to try and check it out, but was followed by a doorman, who asked what I was after, and when I said toilet, I was politely directed to one down the street. I didn't even get to see anything! Just the big hall as you enter, which was very empty, so I wonder if it was even open. But they were gearing up for the Santa Monica Masters Tennis Comp, so maybe that was why. Ah well. It was worth a try. I did see a famous guy, a designer, old, long grey hear tied back. Don't know his name, but I think he is with one of the big ones. D&G maybe?

The view of Monte Carlo from above with my mug in the way.

I then went and walked to the harbour thinking I would go and check out the palace, but seeing that it was very high up and a lot further away, I decided I would ride up, so I walked around the harbour, and looked at all the fantastically massive boats in there, before I went up for the bike. And it was hot! The whole place is hills! I walked along way too, part of the GP track, saw the Fairmont Hotel that Grace Kelly opened, and then the bike. I rode over to the palace in the old town, where a policeman waved me on. I wasn't alowed to park directly outside the palace apparently. So he directed me to where the parking was, but I did a wrong turn, so I did another lap of the old town. I was about to give up when I saw the same policeman again, and he offered to take me there. So I followed him to the parking garage, and he then asked the security guys to look after my bags and stuff in the office! Which they did! How nice. So with all my stuff safely stored, I went and checked out the palace, which was very cool. And I also found out that the rock the old town sits on is Monaco proper. So if the policeman hadn't been so nice, I would have missed out on Monaco altogether! Not good!

The Royal Palace. Still the official residence!

 By this time it 1700 or so, and I still had to get to Italy for the next campsite. All I could think of on the way there was the food. Pasta and pizza. I was practically drooling. Unfortunately the campsite didn't have grass, so I pitched my tent on bricks. Nice. And I had to pay €15 for that?! At least the spag bog was really good. Not what they call it here funny enough!

I even hit 1000 miles today! What a milestone eh! that's more than i rode last year i think!

3 countries done already!

So it has been a while since i wrote, so i'll try to keep it short and sweet.
     When I left you I spent the next day riding to Marseille, well just outside of anyway. It was basically another long day of riding, 200 miles. More lovely country roads, I went by Millau, which has an awesomely big bridge. If i remember correctly it is taller than the Eiffel tower in parts. James, Grant, Nicky and I went there last year to check it out when we toured France. From there, the road took me to Montpellier, which i only saw the industrial parts of really, then cut through a National Park to an hour outside of Montpellier where the wind nearly took me off the road. It didn't let up either! It kept blowing, so i had to hold the bike at an angle, and even my helmet got squiched up against my face. Not comfortable, then the gusts would really try to get me off the road. I took the next campsite available. Of course, not thinking i set up camp under trees, so i woke up in the night with the wind howling through them. at times I was wondering if they were going to come down on me. A restless night I can tell you.
      The next day I went to Marseille and had lunch by the sea. So nice! With the sun shining, barely a breeze. Gorgeous. My first proper look at the Mediteranean.

My view from lunch in Marseille

I followed the pretty coast to just outside St Tropez. Lovely spot. Campsite right by the beach. In the morning I went into St Tropez and had breakfast by the harbour. Some very nice, expensive boats are moored there. I wonder who owns them?

St Tropez Harbour

Then I had my first big 'idiot moment'. I saw a petrol station, and i was going a bit fst to stop for the first entrance, so i slowed to go in the second. Pity it was one way, and as i was half way around the very small corner, a car was oncoming. So I braked. I was already going very slow, but as I was in the middle of this corner, braking wasn't a good idea. I fell over. The car drove off which I was a bit peeved about.... But I was fine, now I just had to get the bike up. I took the back bag off, the heavy one, and tried to lift it. Not gonna happen. It was about now that a lovely gentleman saw me struggling, and helped my pick it up. By now the Carb had flooded, so i had to wait for it to dry out before I could think about trying to start it. At least all looked fine cosmetically... I went and sat by the water to scold myself while I waited. When I went back to the bike, it started well with a little coaxing. Thankfully.

My lunch view in Cannes.

       So now I followed the lovely coast line all the way to Cannes. There was quite a buzz there, there seemed to be an event. I had to figure out if it was the film festival? But no, too early in the year. But there were people everywhere with ID tags on. As I wondered about, there were big billboards for TV production companies everywhere. NBC, MGM, even Channel 7 from back home. It must be the TV equivelent. I thought i saw someone familiar, but i'm not sure who. I'm hopeless with those sorts of things anyway.

      I then continued toward Nice. Always along the coast. It's so nice i couldn't get away. At one point I was looking at the sea with the blue sky, then I rounded the corner and saw the snow-capped alps. Wow. The wind got chillier all of a sudden. So I got a campsite about 20 minutes out of Nice, took all the stuff off my bike, and went into town for dinner.

Nice boardwalk and beach

The plan was to have seafood by the beach, but the restaurants had other ideas. They shut at 6! Low season they said. So after wondering the board walk, which goes for about 10kms by the way, I picked the first place I saw. And they had the mussels I was craving! Yay! I sat down and started to read my book. The owner then showed up, and was being very charming with all the customers, some of which seemed to be regulars,which was very nice. And another man who must have been in his 80s,  came over to inspect my mussels.  He even dipped my knife in it to see what the sauce was like! lovely old fella, but not a word understood between us. Then the owner started on me. First it was just guessing my star sign, and talking about my aura, which was interesting, but harmless enough. He kept it this way, and kept chatting, and invited me for a coffe. I accepted as he was being nice. I thought nothing more of it. But when he started to ask me about my sex life, and offer to help spice it up, i thought it was time to go. He said he had been married 5 times, I wonder why!? He is Egyptian\Greek French. What a combo! Now i don't know, maybe men around 60 years old, with a grey curly mop, and darker skin is some people's cup of tea, but not mine. The ony reason I mention skin colour, is because around here there is so much leather in the older folk! it's gross! And with him I couldn't tell if it was natural or not. Not a good sign... So I left him thinking I would come back later, after I did some stuff... Not gonna happen!
      So that brings us to yesterday. I went back to where you can see the alps, and the sea to get a nice photo, and had breakfast on the beach. Then I went back to the bike. I couldn't find my keys! Crap. I spent the next little while looking for them, then found them thank god! Another idiot moment. Nearly gave me a heart attack! I followed that 10km along the forshore back to Nice. And rounded the corner to Nice Port. I then saw the signs to Monaco, and went yep! That's me! And then the engine overheat light came on. Crap again. I stopped at the port, got my manual out and read it while I had a coke at a nearby Cafe. I found out that clutch slipping can make the engine overheat. I did not know that! And as that is how I ride in traffic, i would put good money on  that being the reason. so once it cooled down, i went to Monaco.
        Unfortunately you will have to find out how Monaco was later cause the computer is about to kick me off. Short and sweet eh? Whoops!

The first few days...

Friday was busy as anything, and I wasn't entirely sure i would be ready on time! It all happened this way because the day before, I had everything on the bike to go for a test ride, since I wanted to make sure I would be able to keep the bike upright fully loaded. But when I hit the ignition, nothing happened. I had just finished using my air pump to pump the tires up to two-up pressures, and now this happened. I called the AA, who came out and said I needed a new battery, but he didn't have one so i would need to go to a garage. He gave me a jump start and I went to y normal mechanics in the City, all the while very conscious that if I stalled it, I wouldn't get it started again. Turns out it was the alternator not charging the battery properly. Someone had replaced it, but not done it properly, there were even wires disconnected. The machanic said that he had noticed it, but as the part looked so new, he didn't want to stuff with it, thinking I had done it. And because of this, I was unable to move my stuff to storage that day, which was the plan, and it was all stuffed into the next day.
       And that was all before I had even left.

I finally did get going at 1930, having said goodbye to everyone (some 3 times, Ashleigh). Off to Portsmouth with me to catch the 2300 ferry to Le Havre. The ride itself was a bit harrowing. The back end was so heavy, that the front would wobble. At times a lot. So there were quite a few white-knuckled, butt-clenching moments. Not even counting the truck that tried to run me off the road.
      A good start huh?

      The ferry itself was suprisingly good. Comfortable as anything, and a smooth ride too. My earplugs did help to keep the engine noise out though.

A pretty bum steer from the SatNav

      In the morning, we arrived in Le Havre at 0800 to a gorgeous day. It couldn't have been any nicer. 21 degrees, sun shining. Now that I had stiffened the rear shocks, the bike rode like it used to. I was back in my groove! The french drive very civilised, on great roads, and there aren't that many of them either! 220 miles, and 7 hours (I ride very slowly with plenty of breaks) later, I was in the Loire Valley have a coke at Elaine's house. She very kindly put me up for the night, when her guests offered (she had the whole family there). Some wine tasting later (courtesy of Steve), it was a wonderful evening.

The Loire River

One of the pretty villages.

         This morning it was a different story. It was raining and cold. not nearly as much fun. Today was about making as much distance as possible in the direction of Marseille. Unfortunately the SatNav decided that the fastest way was down lots of little streets, some hardly paved anymore, and barely able to fit me and car to go past. I expected to come across this, but not so soon! I was hoping to be able to warm up to it. The bonus of doing this was that I saw places that I would not have seen. Very cute villages, people and cows looking at me strabgely as though people don't often ride through there.Couldn't think why. I think the average age is 75 in  some of these places... I even came around one corner and there was a family of domestic goats by the road. Luckily it was a very slow corner, as most were today. I also had to deal with a suicidal bunny. He ran across the road, was safe there, then decided to come back right in front of me! On the plus side, that could have been dinner.... I ended up doing 270miles today, with an average speed of 47km/hr. Far too much, very slowly. I had do alot of shifting in my seat to keep the pain away, even the gel seat didn't help much. But standing helped.... It will be a shorter ride to Marseille tomorrow. Thankfully.

Campsite view. Half a lake.

My first Campsite

I am now somewhere in the mountains, maybe the Pyranees?? I'm not sure. but in the vicinity of Touluck. According to SatNav. I have set up camp, cooked dinner, and about to turn in for the night. I think it's gonna be cold too.... It only got to 15 degrees today...  

Trying to cook, without freezing! A challange...